Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Romanesque Churches

Today our group took an afternoon stroll through the streets of Segovia to visit Romanesque churches.  It was a beautiful day to walk around the small city, and though it was hot, we found reprieve from the sun within the silent stone walls of centuries old buildings.  In total, we entered two holy structures, named San Millán and San Justo y Pastor.  The third church on our tour, the Church of San Esteban, was closed, but we viewed it from the outside because of its elegant tower. These churches, like eleven others throughout the city, share the same architectural style known as Romanesque or románico.

Found in other parts of the country and Europe, these churches were built from the 11th to the 13th century and include elements from Roman architecture. For example, the layout of the church is in the shape of a cruz latina or Latin cross, with the alter always located in a semicircular apse in the east, and the main entrance in the west. Romanesque churches can have anywhere from one to five naves, the center one always taller than the others. Outside the church are carvings in the stone (for Segovia the stone is limestone), to represent biblical stories or mythological figures. In the middle ages few could read, so such carvings helped illustrate the important lessons within the Bible and mythology.

Below the churches lie the graves of local families. This custome changed centuries later with the Bourbon king Felipe V and the creation of Spain's first cemetery in La Granja. Here, in the Church of San Millán, each grave was marked with carved numbers that corresponded to a chart listing the names of the family members so the graves could be identified. The graves sometimes held whole families and after enough time had passed, a new family would occupy the grave. 



Additionally, only in Segovia will you find a galería porticada, something like a covered stone patio, on the outside of the churches. No one really knows why this is such a predominant feature in this city's churches, but it is believed to be because of the weather. During the cold months the churches would be quite chilly, and if they were also used as meeting places for local governments, the outside patio would be warmer if it protected people from wind, but still allowed for the warmth of the sun to penetrate.  An interesting theory, no?

Of course, each of the churches we visited was unique in its own way. The first, San Millan, is the largest in Segovia, with its four naves and semicircular apses on the east end of the cross-shaped floor plan. Inside, an enormous organ still plays even after its construction in the 17th century.  

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Mind you, the church itself was constructed in 1111 (completed in 1126).  Inside, another typical feature of Romanesque churches, are paintings on the stone walls that depict biblical scenes as well as mythological references. In the Church of San Millán there are frescos of San Cristóbal carrying Christ, Christ on the cross, and an almost more renaissance-like portrayal of baby Jesus being circumcised.  

The second church, San Justo y Pastor, is much smaller, though not to be overlooked. Today it is known for the beautiful paintings that surround the alter. They are even better preserved than those of San Millán, and show numerous biblical stories, from the creation, to Judas' betrayal, to the Crucifixion.  

It is important to note that all of these churches are Catholic, hence the importance of saints (also found within the paintings and carvings).  Also in San Justo y Pastor lies a medieval wooden figurine of Jesus post Crucifixion. He is life sized, and like many religious figures, is brought out during Holy Week.  How did he come to find his home in this small church?  A donkey brought him from France, according to legend. No one knew which church he should belong to, so the donkey continued to carry him. When the donkey died in front of the church of San Justo, this was taken as a sign as to where the wooden figure belonged. It has become part of the church, not only for special occasions, but also in educational and biblical plays performed throughout the medieval ages.  




We viewed the third church from the outside because of its beautiful tower. Before it was damaged by fire and repaired, it was the tallest tower in Segovia. This church is called San Esteban. 



Even those who do not identify with the Catholic religion can appreciate the beauty and history within these architectural gems. We visited only three today, but there are more to see right here in Segovia and beyond.



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